Fashion's Night Out!

DAHLINGS -

It's boiling hot here in New York City, which has me a tad irritable. So I hope you do not mind if I forego my usual brilliant commentary with a press release I was sent today regarding Fashion's Night Out.

MAYOR BLOOMBERG ANNOUNCES EXPANDED FASHION’S NIGHT OUT FOR 2010

Nearly 1,000 Participants Across the City Already a Part of this Year’s Event, Including Largest Public Fashion Show in New York City History

175,000 Jobs in City’s $10 Billion Retail and Fashion Industries

Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg, NYC & Company CEO George Fertitta, Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour and Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Executive Director Steven Kolb today detailed Fashion’s Night Out 2010, which will include the largest public fashion show in New York City history – Fashion’s Night Out: The Show.

Mayor Bloomberg and a man in a white shirt

Fashion’s Night Out, which was first introduced last year, is a citywide event to support retail and fashion in New York City. Participating retail stores across the five boroughs will stay open until 11:00 PM on Friday, September 10th and offer an array of in-store celebrations and promotions. Nearly 1000 participants, including retailers, designers, and fashion and beauty brands have already signed on to participate in the event. The new public fashion show will take place on September 7th at Lincoln Center and tickets will go on sale to the public on Thursday, August 19th through the Lincoln Center Box Office. The show will feature more than 150 top models and trends for fall as determined by Vogue and the show will seat more than 1,500 spectators, with tickets starting at $25. Proceeds from the fashion show’s ticket sales will benefit the NYC AIDS Fund. The Mayor also was joined by Saks, Inc. CEO Steve Sadove, designer Marc Jacobs and leading members of the fashion and retail community.

“Fashion and retail is part of the very fabric of New York City – supporting 175,000 jobs and pumping $10 billion into our economy annually,” said Mayor Bloomberg. “We are going to continue to help support, develop and expand these sectors with programs like Fashion’s Night Out, our fashion incubator and the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. With a growing number of locations participating in Fashion’s Night Out and the largest public fashion show in city history, we are providing consumers with more opportunities to see all the city’s retailers and designers have to offer.”

“Millions from around the world visit New York City to be at the epicenter for fashion and design,” said NYC & Company CEO George Fertitta. “Fashion’s Night Out is a global showcase for the city’s outstanding talent, attracting visitors and supporting the local businesses that work so hard to ensure that New York City remains the world’s fashion capital. We are also excited to expand this year’s program to include this one-of-a-kind fashion show that will make Fashion’s Night Out even more accessible to visitors and residents across the five boroughs.”

“We are very excited to add the fashion show this year so that people will have the opportunity to see the wonderful clothes that will be available to them on Fashion’s Night Out,” said Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour. “We've focused the show on the trends we thought were most important, so that no matter what their style or budget shoppers will have a source of inspiration.”
Anna Wintour and Tommy Hilfiger

“This is the first fashion show of its kind to bring the excitement of a live fashion show in an amazing outdoor setting directly to the general public,” said CFDA Executive Director Steven Kolb. “Guests will get a rare, first-hand glimpse of in-season clothes from the most creative designers, including many CFDA members and the top in American talent.”

Starting on August 16th, a listing of Fashion’s Night Out events to date – including designer and celebrity appearances, special products, performances and fashion shows with more expected to appear as the event nears – can be viewed by going to http://www.nyc.gov/. In addition, NYC & Company has worked with hotels around the city to create more than 40 individual hotel packages for the month of September, including packages at 6 Thompson, Fashion 26, Hudson New York, Paramount Hotel New York and the Mandarin Oriental. In an effort to drive visitation and increase consumer participation, these hotels will offer exclusive deals for travelers who want to experience Fashion’s Night Out. A full list of hotels and packages is available on http://www.nyc.gov/.

On Tuesday, September 14th, CBS will also air an hour-long special on the making of Fashion’s Night Out. The piece will feature designers, editors and retailers as they prepare for the second year of Fashion’s Night Out, as well as other industry professionals – from salespeople to design staff – who work and contribute to the city’s retail and fashion sectors.

Last year, Mayor Bloomberg and the CFDA launched the CFDA Fashion Incubator, which is designed to grow and sustain the next generation of fashion designers in New York City by providing access to low-cost studio space and support services. New York City’s Economic Development Corporation provided a three-year, $200,000 grant to establish the incubator, which is an approximately 10,000-square-foot space that accommodates up to twelve designers. Similarly, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, which Mayor Bloomberg helped launch in 2003, continues to provide financial support and business mentorship for emerging designers and this year’s $200,000 top prize and two $50,000 runner-ups will be announced on November 15th. Designer Prabal Gurung, a participant in the CFDA Fashion Incubator and a past finalist for the CFDA/Fashion Fund award, also joined the Mayor at the announcement.

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There you go, dahlings. I love it when a blog entry entails virtually no work at all. I mean, it is summer!

Ciao,

Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

Guest Blogger: "The September Issue" Film Review

DAHLINGS -


My dear friend Sumana Harihareswara, (say that five times fast), is a technology executive who does the sort of work I don't understand and can't possibly explain. And she is a delightful person. Now this might have you thinking, "Is our faithful correspondent in a parallel universe? Is she high? A technology executive, delightful?"


Fear not, cherished readers, my sanity is intact. Sumana brings a perspective to the arena of fashion that I find refreshing, since those that toil in the fields of style tend to suffer from, shall we say, an atrophied sense of irony. Everything, from what hemline is in to what shoulder treatment Diane Von Furstenberg is using, is so deadly serious.


In any event, we attended the film, The September Issue, together, and her review is well worth reading. It sums up much of what we discussed afterward. (The link to her blog, Cogito Ergo, Sumana, is on the right.)


http://www.harihareswara.net/sumana/2009/09/12/0

And by the way, the hats for the $50,000 photo shoot set in the 1920s were made by the amazingly talented Ellen Christine of Ellen Christine Millinery. She supplied much of the wondrous headgear I sported during New York Fashion Week!

Enjoy!

Ciao,

Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

Random Musings On Fashion Week S/S 2010

DAHLINGS –

I have a few moments to sit quietly at home, sipping a cappuccino. Bucky is in my lap; he's been in a deep funk because I have left him at home this time. In February, his lunging at Anna Wintour was not to be tolerated. Bad enough he's already bitten Andre Leon Talley! (Search this blog for the entire story.) I've been musing over the first four days of New York Fashion Week.

THE AUDIENCE

Cathy Horyn wrote a brilliant front-page article in The New York Times on Friday, about high fashion falling to earth. As much as your dutiful correspondent adores the shows, one has to ask oneself at this time: is it worth it?

On the one hand, the spectacle, the showmanship, the exquisite workmanship of some of the clothes is simply breathtaking. Some garments have brought tears to my eyes for their sheer beauty. Some outfits have made me wonder what drugs the designer was consuming when he created them.

On the other hand, the voracity of the media is one thing. But observing the same voracity in the eyes of desperate “people of the moment” and want-to-be “people of the moment” is another thing altogether.

For instance, last night, backstage at the Custo Barcelona show I was SQUASHED between Mr. Dalmau, who is tiny, dozens of PYTs and show-crashers. Some of them leaned back on my capacious bosom as if it was an armchair. (One knows they have an exaggerated sense of entitlement, but my breasts are not included, thank you very much.) Somehow one simply could not escape being next to Mr. Dalmau; the crowd simply carried me across the dressing room.

Moi, trapped behind Custo Dalmau (and holding onto a dress rack for dear life)

My face was also pinned by the back of a television camera. When I howled, the swine of a cameraman was completely unapologetic. If it had been Tori Spelling, who was at the Christian Siriano show, he would have been groveling. God knows she probably wouldn’t have even felt it through the Botox and the heavy makeup.

Backstage Tori glued herself to poor Christian’s side until he grabbed his bodyguard and ran out of the room. True story, dahlings.

My dear friend funkoma wrote a blog post on a related topic, “To Be Young, Pretty And Stupid.” http://funkomavintage.blogspot.com/2009/09/oh-to-be-young-pretty-and-stupid.html/

The shining exceptions to this behavior, besides my wonderful on-site assistant Bella Fierce, have been the darling Tim Gunn (who remembered me, causing a girlish blush to rise to my cheeks), the ever-gracious Fern Mallis, Marc Bouwer, Jack Mackenroth, Christopher Straub, and many of the bloggers I have been fortunate to meet this time at the rodeo.

Tim Gunn Greets His Public

THE UTTER LACK OF FOOD

It should not come as a surprise that, in addition to the paramedics outside the tents with crash carts of Ensure and methamphetamines, there is no food served inside the tents. Free cocktails abound, as does some sponsor's water, Muscle Milk (blech) Coke and Diet Coke, and “mocktails” served up at the Fashion Week juice bar by Belgian restaurant Rouge Tomate, prepared by Rouge Tomate’s mixologist, Rainlove Lampariello. I have no responsibility for the person's name, but let me tell you, the drinks are actually quite delicious. The lemonade with cucumber and mint was an absolute lifesaver before getting back on line for a show. (Your faithful correspondent holds off on the liquor until after the shows are over...one must keep a clear head.)

However, backstage at the Vivienne Tam show, there was an array of goodies. I was so surprised, I photographed them. Then I grabbed a goat cheese sandwich and broke the symmetry of the display.

REMARKS AND RESPONSES

Overheard at the Wednesday night Saks Fifth Avenue celebration: “Saks is a legend," gushed Rachel Zoe. "You come to New York, and this is where you go! It's been around forever, and it's one-stop shopping. Plus, it's Saks! It's Saks Fifth Avenue.”

Stylist Philip Block on clients with bad taste: “I’ll dress them, but they’re not to give me any credit on the red carpet!”

Tim Gunn after the Christian Siriano show: “I feel like a proud papa!”

Half the people one stood next to, usually to a bored, footsore security guard: “Don’t you know who I AM?” Invariable response: nothing. They hear it all day.

Almost any designer save Marc Bouwer when I ask, “Would you ever consider designing for a woman my size?” Invariable response: a frozen stare, and then a few gulps.

That’s all for now. I’m off to prepare myself for my interview with Frazer Harrison, celebrity photographer, so I need to write out a list of rude questions.

Ciao,

Elisa & Bucky the Sulking Wonderdog



All photographs Elisa DeCarlo

From WWD: Mayor Bloomberg & Anna Wintour

DAHLINGS -



From today's scoop at Women's Wear Daily:



CALLING ALL CUSTOMERS: Details of a far-reaching consumer initiative to take place this fall are expected to be unveiled sometime next week with New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Vogue’s Anna Wintour, designers and retail executives providing a united front in an attempt to jump-start business. The initiative is believed to have the participation of top city retailers and will come at a time when stores have been hard-hit by recession. Vacant storefronts are cropping up, tourism is off and layoffs have plagued several industries, from publishing to Wall Street. Activities will likely include various special events, from personal appearances to extended shopping hours, to lure customers back into the stores.



Personally, I think they had better start much sooner to halt the downward toboggan-esque slide of New York's economy. For more, follow this link:



http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/fans-in-cannes-wintours-stimulus-golden-oldies-2136786?page=2&src=bblast/051509/a

Alaïa Calls Anna Wintour "A Dictator"! Quel Horror!

DAHLINGS -

Today's entry was sent to me by Stephanie Adlerstein of Conde Nast, about the Alaia kerfuffle concerning the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute Show, courtesy of Women's Wear Daily:

WEAR AND TEAR: Azzedine Alaïa isn’t easing up on his anger over the Costume Institute exhibit “The Model as Muse” and the Monday night gala — but perhaps it’s misplaced. Alaïa is upset none of his designs were included in the exhibit and yanked seven dresses due to be worn to the gala by his longtime muses, including Naomi Campbell (shown below in Alaia), Stephanie Seymour and Linda Evangelista, none of whom showed.

But Harold Koda, curator in charge of the Costume Institute, on Thursday explained to WWD why the exhibit featured no Alaïa garments. Cathy Horyn of The New York Times claimed in a blog item Monday that “[Alaïa] was not fully informed by the Met about the subject of the show, nor was he invited to attend the opening.” Koda noted to WWD that early on during the show’s conception, several ideas were tossed around, including asking some of the supermodels for their Alaïa dresses. After all, he explained, the supermodels, in the early part of their careers, were closely aligned to the designer and had a symbiotic relationship with him. Before approaching the models, however, he wanted to make sure Alaïa was comfortable to see his work in the show. “I felt it was a courtesy to approach the designer,” Koda said. “By coincidence, a mutual friend was having dinner with him in Paris the very following night, and I said, ‘Will you tentatively ask him whether or not he would be comfortable with this?’ When she came back, she said he is really not comfortable, so we never pursued approaching the supermodels for their dresses.”

Koda stressed that while Alaïa was never formally approached, he was approached nevertheless. “We would have loved to have had his pieces in the show, but there was a lot of miscommunication,” Koda said. “Maybe it was oversensitivity on my part in broaching it informally rather than with a formal letter. Nobody is to blame. My understanding was that he didn’t want his work in the show,” Koda added, “So I honored it.”

Alaïa, though, blames someone else: Anna Wintour. The designer criticized the Vogue editor in chief to both Horyn and, on Thursday, to WWD, claiming Wintour has snubbed his work for the past 15 years and saying “she behaves like a dictator and everyone is terrified of her…but I’m not scared of her or anyone.” The designer, speaking at his Paris residence where the seven unworn dresses now hang, vowed to loan them out for editorials and to continue his campaign. Maybe he should just pick up the phone and call Koda instead?

— Katya Foreman and Marc Karimzadeh

Your faithful correspondent hopes that this is not in any way true? My idol, Anna Wintour, snubbing Azzedine Alaïa? More will be revealed, I am certain!

There's more to be read at http://www.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/memo-pad-alaia-aloud-what-michelle-o-really-wore-townsend-honored-2126512?src=bblast/050809

Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

The Met Museum Costume Gala: "The Model As Muse" Part 1

DAHLINGS –

The Metropolitan Museum opened its latest costume exhibition, “The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion,” last night with a gala co-chaired by Marc Jacobs, Kate Moss, Justin Timberlake and my idol, Anna Wintour, who was of course stunning in Chanel.



Kate Moss embodied an unusual sophistication (for her), wearing a silver dress and matching turban. Here she is with the grand poobah of the evening, Marc Jacobs:



Inadvertently, the evening revealed to this intrepid reporter how fashion modeling has slid downwards, from spectacular women wearing beautiful clothes, to anorexic teenagers who can, for the most part, hardly be told apart. I very much doubt that the model wearing this fantastic Fortuny gown would have inspired the designer back in the day:



Look at that cheap bracelet, the mussy hair, the vacant expression. One might call this, "The Model As Mess." Natalia might as well be in jeans and a t-shirt, for all of the poise she displays. Compare the gorgeous Cindy Crawford (in Versace) to Anja Rubik:



The model above is one of the best arguments for fat-grafting the thighs that I have ever seen. And note how, in the photo below, Agnyss Deyn and Twiggy seemed to have switched ages. Twiggy looks young and fresh, while her compatriot looks haggard.



There were two disturbing fashion trends seen on this evening (excluding Madonna). The first was high-low hems, which are reaching new extremes this spring.


Victoria Beckham, replete with a spray-on tan that would put Valentino to shame



Jessica Biel, who just cannot get the hang of this red carpet thing, also replete with spray-on tan.


Narcisco Rodriguez with some young unfortunate wearing his creation

The second was my personal bete-noir, pardon the pun, neutral tones. I am only showing a few out of the HUNDREDS of beige, pale pink and faintly tan gowns last night.


Zac Posen with a model wearing his dress that spells VOGUE across the front. As first I thought it spelled MCGOO but a friendly journalist pointed out my mistake.





Ashley Olson arrived to announce that she is soon to be taking the cloth, and was appropriately garbed as a novice nun:



And somehow I believe Amy Winehouse staggered in:


Debbie Harry showed up, whimsical as ever, in her pajamas.


And then there was Carmen, one of the most ageless models of them all, splendid in leopard.



One of the surprises, to moi, was how well most of the designers themselves looked. Donna Karan, usually a fashion disaster, wore this tasteful, flattering gown:



Diane Von Furstenberg always looks lovely, but this was especially chic:



Standing nearby is Eva Longoria Parker and the underside of her breast. Ironically, television and movie stars are far more often gracing the pages and advertising of fashion magazines than models, and so, many came out for the extravaganza. My dear, dear friend Donatella Versace stepped out in a dress of her own creation.



While I adore this gown, I must confess it seems that Donatella's face might be sliding off. Lay off the anti-aging treatments, Donatella!



And what fashion event would be worth its salt without my other dear, dear friend, Andre Leon Talley? I don't know who designed his outfit, but doesn't he look like an English barrister without the white wig?



More later, dahlings!

Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

Fashion Week Fall 2009: The Omnipresent Silhouette

DAHLINGS,

Is it moi, or was the Herve’ Leger by Max Azria show on Sunday as dull as calculus class on a rainy fall afternoon? One could almost feel the dank closeness of the wet classroom, the eyes slowly closing as one fights to keep awake over the unreadable textbook. A parade of dreary bandage dresses made their way down the runway (although starlets January Jones and her ilk seemed to love them). For once, the models’ forlorn expressions matched the clothes beautifully. And of course, there was the Silhouette:


Photo by Marceil Madiera

On the other hand, Diane Von Furstenberg’s “Nomad” collection was a sumptuous parade of textures and colors. The tent was absolutely packed with celebrities and fashion glitterati, including Diana Ross, who the press insists on calling “ageless.” I prefer “drinks the blood of young male virgins at the full moon." Really, what is going on with that woman? Note the expression on the face of her seatmate. Surely she wonders too.


Photo by Greg Kessler

However, her music on the soundtrack was a wonderful choice. My idol, Anna Wintour, was there, next to a gentleman whose hand looked like he’d gotten the worst of a battle with Bucky, my miniature pinscher.

Photo by Greg Kessler

But I swear, we were on the other side of the aisle! Bucky was nestled in his favorite oversized Dooney & Burke carrier, which matched my DVF ensemble perfectly. Other than some startled barking when Charlie Rose bumped against his carrier (what was Charlie Rose doing there?), my little darling behaved himself perfectly.

Back to the clothes—your faithful correspondent does not know which she enjoyed more, the variety, the lack of The Omnipresent Silhouette (although the first one comes very close), or the comparative sprightliness of the models. Although their utter lack of thigh flesh continues to distress me.
(All photos by Marcel Madeira)





This dress was my absolute favorite, of course; what can I say, I’m a fool for satin.



It was the only show that one attended that did not somehow have a whisper of fear around it...the economy is quite definitely changing the tone of Fashion Week, and it is not for the better. Oh, dear, that is a Deep Thought, and those always give me headaches. I shall have to stop here for the nonce, and go leaf through Details magazine.

Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

The Rumors Aren't True...Anna Wintour STAYS!

DAHLINGS -

Imagine my relief when I read numerous rebuttals to the rumor thatmy darling Anna Wintour would be replaced at Vogue! Si Newhouse and even Roitfeld's daughter have said absolutely non to the proposed change.

Les mots ne peuvent exprimer mon secours.

My sincerest apologies to any French friends my previous entry might have offended, but I was writing (or dictating, as the case may be) out of pure emotion. A mixture of terror, grief, and a fear that suddenly American females would be expected not to wear lipstick anymore.

More later, mon chers -

Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

Mon Dieu! Terrible Rumors About Anna Wintour!!!

DAHLINGS -

As you know, I am the last word in discreet. Far be it from moi to spread rumors, but possibly terrible news has reached my shell-like ears:

Anna Wintour may be replaced at Vogue!

Non! Il ne peut pas être! C'est un scandale, je vous le dis, un crime au-delà des mots! Je suis sans voix! Les mots me manquent! Non! Non!

Non!

I knew there had to be a reason she had gone blonde.

According to online sources, Condé Nast overlord Si Newhouse departed early for his annual three-week December vacation in Vienna. It seems that he needed time for a meeting with French Vogue's éditeur de femmes Carine Roitfeld! Oh, the humanity!

But how can the editor of such a small part of the Condé Nast empire fill Anna's exquisitely fitted high heels? No one loves the French better than moi, but let us be entirely honest, mon cher readers. During Spring Fashion Week, Roitfeld confessed to disliking business, to being a stylist first and foremost. The Français diable must have been talking out of the other side of her face, if you get my drift.

The woman doesn't even wear lipstick! Yes, yes, we all blather about how stylish the Parisians are, but do you think Roitfeld has what it takes to oversee a magazine that speaks to millions of American readers?? Next to America, France is a bit of a cow town, no matter how many books Americans write about Frenchwomen never being fat. (I've seen them, and I know what a base canard that is.)

This is like asking Sarah Palin to be President. Thank GOD it never came to that!

And what will happen to darling Andre Leon Talley? We've reconciled since his (ugh) friendship with Rachel Zoe. We simply have an agreement that he never mentions her name in front of me, or I will sic Bucky the Wonderdog on him. Where will Andre go? I simply cannot envision him hosting a show on the Style Network! Oh, how the mighty might fall!

The word is that this is part of a cost-cutting move by Newhouse because Mens Vogue and Fashion Rocks have flopped, and dear Anna commands a two million dollar salary. Plus perks and undying devotion from yours truly.

One hopes Anna can find comfort in the arms of Roger Federer. Failing him, Michael Phelps. Phelps will sleep with anyone when he's drunk enough, although you didn't hear it from moi.

Now, how on earth did I get into the topic of Michael Phelps's sex life?? I am sorry to be getting so exercised, I must go lie down and have the maid dab my temples with eau-de-cologne. Oh, the economy!

Ciao,

Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

The Met "Superheroes" Gala - Meet The Heroes and Villains!

Dahlings –

The annual gala for the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute happened recently, and of course, your faithful correspondent was in attendance! (There would have been hell to pay had I not!)

The theme was “Superheroes”, those mythic comic book heroes and heroines in leotards and capes, among other strange fetishistic clothing. No one appreciates a well-built man in Spandex more than moi, but it did seem an oddly petit-bourgeois choice for a costume installation.

However my idol, Anna Wintour, rose to the challenge, in a silver two-piece Chanel costume modeled after "Storm," a character in something called X-Men. I can only assume Storm has something to do with ram's horns.



Most of the guests opted to dress in rather ordinary glamour-carpet gowns, to the disappointment of yours truly. I hoped for a parade of capes, gloves, golden boots, not the usual E! blue plate specials. (For the record, I was in a red satin gown with a matching capelet, gold stiletto heels, and gold gloves, with clutch to match. Bucky accompanied me in a red harness with a little red satin cape with a gold "B" on it. So cute--although he did try to bite Coco Rocha when she bent down to pet him. How does that dog know?)

The absolute worst-dressed women of the evening, however, were the designers themselves. Here is a trio that, if they were Super-Villains, would be called The Hags From Hades, with the power to transform dresses into shapeless, hideous sacks with a wave of their tape measures:




Vera Wang, Donna Karan, Anna Sui

My personal votes for the best dressed woman were polar opposites, but they radiated their own unique style. First we have Sarah Silverman, in her secret identity as Sarabeth, 50s Cutie:



Yes, I know some critics thought she merely looked like a sober version of Amy Winehouse, but since there is no such animal, I cannot agree.

Next we have super heroine Naomi Watts as Queen Lateetha, whose battle cry is “Let There Be Light!” and instantly one’s teeth are blindingly white. She only uses her powers for good.



More later on the many crimes against fashion that were committed before we sat down to dinner in the Temple of Dendur, but I shall leave you with a lovely look at the man with whom I spent the night of the Academy Awards last year, Chris Noth...sigh...who needs George Clooney? (Who was also co-hosting the evening and looking rather drawn, if I may say so.)



Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky The Wonderdog

Such A Relief to Order People Around Again!

DAHLINGS -

Pardonnez moi once again for not having posted recently, but I had to hire a maid and a new personal assistant! Exhausting, I tell you. Checking mountains of references, having my detectives send the videos to my Blackberry, making sure all of the apartment Hide-A-Cams are in place--

Not to mention, shall we say, "arranging" to have my former assistant--well, what is the word I want? Silenced? Yes, I believe silenced is the safest choice.

After all, she did resign without notice during Fashion Week Spring 2008.

Now do not leap to conclusions--she's not dead, just a tad, well, shaken up.

My new assistant is easily intimidated, and that makes things so much smoother. And there are several new riders on the confidentiality agreement. My new maid is not only childless, but unmarried, so there should be nothing that prevents her from fulfilling my merest whim day or night.

GUADALUPE! GET IN HERE! I NEED A CUP OF CHAMOMILE TEA, AND I NEED IT NOW!

Ahem. What was I saying? Oh, dear, my assistant jumped a bit when I called to the maid.

It's all right, dear, I won't hurt you. If you behave. Just keep typing until I tell you to stop. And remember, don't get your face too close to Bucky's mouth. He's adorable, but those teeth are razor sharp and he has, as the television hosts say, "issues" about anyone but moi being too close to him.

Ah, I must tell you, my faithful readers, this is sheer bliss. I feel like Anna Wintour.

Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

It's all right, dear, you can stop typing now. No, really, NOW. I mean NOW. STOP TYPING! WHAT IS THE MATTER WITH YOU, YOU IDIOT? DO I HAVE TO PULL YOUR HANDS OFF THE KEY--

Viviene of Born Too Late Vintage on Plus Size Vintage Fashion

DAHLINGS -

You may think it foolish of moi to promote the competition, but Viviene of Born Too Late Vintage is a dear friend, and has so many marvelous things that I felt compelled, yes, compelled to interview her. I have spent time with her, and she is a smart businesswoman and utterly ruthless at estate sales. Until you have seen Viviene body-block a twenty-something in a black H&M Prada knockoff reaching for a vintage silk nightgown, you have not lived. Viviene is much like Bucky, small but surprisingly dangerous. I admire that in a woman.

Here is a bit of her stock. The link to the actual listing is directly below:

Vintage 1940s-1950s Tan Gingham Dress Plus Size 28 1/2 NOS



http://www.specialistauctions.com/auctiondetails.php?id=789400

As it happens, sellers of plus size vintage are few and far between. I recently purchased a beautiful 50s dress from Viviene, and it arrived almost the next day! She sells all sizes and eras on her site, which is not on (ugh) Ebay, but rather on Specialist Auctions, a site based in the United Kingdom. Viviene, however, is based right here in the United States.

Which made it possible for us to sit down over cocktails and canapes, my assistant at the ready with pad and paper in hand, in my sumptuous Central Park West apartment. As the rain pattered against the windows, Bucky repeatedly tried to grab the canapes off of the coffee table, naughty beast. Viviene and I discussed plus size vintage (and also some tres' salacious sexual gossip, which I have been forbidden to print!). Oh, well, it gave my assistant some titillation, at least.

Q: When did you first become interested in vintage clothing? Do you have any special memories you would like to share with my vast readership?

A: I've been interested in vintage since I was in high school. Our high school had "Wally Cleaver Week" and we'd dress up in 1950s clothing which was a lot easier to find back in the mid 1970s (Damn! I just gave away my age!).

My favorite memory is one I've shared on my blog, website and store at Specialist Auctions. My mom made a dress for the Butterfield Hospital Ball out of a fabric called American Beauty Rose fuchsia jacquard back in the mid 1960s. I've been searching for that fabric for around 8 years now and finally found it so my dress for my husband's Christmas party will be custom made from a vintage pattern by Juanita of Reproduction Dress (http://www.reproductiondress.com/).

Q: Ahem. Thank you for sharing a well-used memory. It's lovely all the same. Ah. Well. How long have you been a vintage clothing seller?

A: I've been selling vintage clothing now for almost 4 years. I sell vintage clothing because I enjoy the styles of yesteryear and really appreciate the fact that the items are made with a quality and construction sadly lacking in today's clothing.

Q: Too true! What is the biggest problem (pardon the pun) facing the plus-size woman when seeking a vintage wardrobe?

A: The biggest problem that plus size women face in buying vintage clothing, in my opinion, is that there are not many vintage sellers that sell plus size vintage. You'll remember, Fashionista, when we went to the Manhattan Vintage Show in April of this year that more than 50% of the vintage sellers there were plus size women, however, not one of them had any plus size vintage. We both asked them why they don't carry it and they said it just doesn't sell.

I have to admit that I have plus size vintage in my store and it's not flying out of there. Still, being plus size myself I will stubbornly hang in there and continue to offer it. It may just be that not enough plus size women know where to find me or for that matter your own store (editorial aside: gasp!) that caters to plus sizes. Plus size women shouldn't be stuck buying just vintage accessories. However, that said, they can always consider reproduction dresses made with vintage fabric and vintage patterns and then add vintage accessories to complete the look.

Many times plus size vintage dresses were worn until they were unwearable simply because people didn't have a closet full of disposable clothing in those days. Some dresses were cut down for other family members as well. So it's a real treat when you find a plus size item.

Q: What styles do you think are the most flattering for which figure types?

A: It's really hard to say exactly what dress is going to look good on any particular body type. You also have to factor in the color or pattern of a dress, skirt or blouse. Comparing an item that you have that you love and that fits well can be a big help in choosing another item. You also need to factor in each person's individual skin tone and likes or dislikes.

I think the two most important things that a plus size woman needs to do is be honest about her measurements and when taking those measurements to wear the kind of undergarments she intends to wear underneath her vintage wardrobe. Just doing that alone will help you make sure you are getting an item that is going to fit you right. You may not like what that tape measure says but better to be accurate than to have a closet full of things that don't fit.

Q: Again, too true! My guide to buying plus size vintage makes exactly that point, but you cannot emphasize it enough. It's the same as wearing brassieres that do not fit properly. The merchandise (be it you or the dress) is not properly showcased!

Viviene, are there any styles that you think plus-size women should avoid?

A: That's again going to depend on the individual. How tight or loose you like to wear your clothing, what colors you like and just your own very personal preferences are what will guide any person whether plus size or not.

Q: Well, then, what is your own favorite era?

A: My favorite era is the 1960s because the fashions span the modest to the most wild things I've ever seen. There's something for everyone in that era and fashion made huge leaps forward in that time span. For instance, a major leap forward is the leap from modest one piece swimwear with a modesty panel across the lower torso area in the early 1960s to the monokini designed in 1964 by designer Rudi Gernreich.

The other major leap I remember is the jump stockings held up with garter belts to pantyhose. That helped usher in hemlines going from below the knee to 6 to 7 inches above the knee!

Q: How is selling on Specialist Auctions different than selling on (ugh) Ebay?

A: Things have changed at Ebay over time and unfortunately those things are out of the control of the sellers at large. I grew tired of having my vintage clothing competing with reproductions that were listed in the vintage categories when there is a reproduction category provided.

I'm not against reproductions, but rather want them to be presented as such in their appropriate category. So I decided to give another venue a try. I did that for six months but wanted to take my business in a different direction than that venue offered. So when a friend, Margaret Bolger, who owns Artizania Vintage, asked me to come over to the Specialist Auctions as the co-moderator of the vintage and antique section and I accepted.

Selling at Specialist Auctions is different than Ebay in that we have moderators and co-moderators for our different sections. One of the responsibilities of the moderator is to police their section to make sure that what is offered is authentic.

If we see an item that is a reproduction for example, we will contact the seller and have them move their item where it belongs. If they don't comply then we move it to the correct section.

Another thing that the moderators do in the vintage, antique and modern clothing sections do is promote the sellers of those categories by blogs on MySpace, http://www.myspace.com/specialistauctionsvintage
http://myspace.com/specialistauctions and also on my own blog, http://alwaysplayingdressup.blogspot.com/.

Q: What should the savvy shopper look out for? What are some useful tips for buying vintage online?

A: The savvy shopper should look at a seller's presentation and feedback. Really look at the descriptions of the items you are interested in. Check the measurements and make sure you leave two inches leeway for comfort of fit. Remember that vintage clothing was worn over foundations that are nothing like what we wear today. Your foundation garment can make the difference between a vintage dress looking wonderful or downright lumpy and unattractive. If you have questions contact the seller. How a seller handles those questions is going to tell you whether you want to be involved in a transaction with that seller.

Q: Now for my Oprah question: who are your role models? As you know, mine is Anna Wintour, who taught me that conquest is all.

A: My role models are my Mom and Dad. The most important thing they taught me is that anything worth doing is worth doing right. That's my goal every day in all parts of my life.

And Viviene does it absolutely right, at http://borntoolatevintage.com/. Please do swing by and took a look...there are hundreds of items, something for everyone!

Ciao,

Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

Fashion Heaven...in Arizona??

DAHLINGS -

This entry is a bit of a departure for moi. For one thing I am typing it myself. But I have a manicure appointment in an hour, so I am happy to sacrifice my nails in the service of you, mes chers lecteurs.

I was browsing the Web late the other night, Bucky the Wonderdog curled in my lap, Frank Sinatra's "Only The Lonely" on Itunes. (Really, dahlings, his rendition of "One For My Baby"--guaranteed to smear the mascara of the most hardened fashion maven!)

I came upon a site called Electric Ladyland. My finger was stayed from hitting the back button. Electric Ladyland is apparently a small chain of boutiques, in, of all Godforsaken places, Arizona. (My apologies, but being a New Yorker, anywhere south of New Jersey seems like the backwoods.) The stores are run by Penny Long, a gorgeous femme d'un certain âge, and her equally gorgeous son, Ashley Mutrux.

What first caught my attention was that the store pictured looks oddly like a heightened version of my beautiful Central Park West apartment! Hung with chandeliers, it has that distinctively theatrical, feminine taste for luxury that the true cognoscenti instantly recognize. Leopard print and floral chintz display counters, mannequins wearing large feathered headdresses—absolute heaven in the middle of the desert!


(Photo courtesy Electric Ladyland)

And they sell brands that run plus, such as 7 For All Mankind.

But I was most interested in their jewelry. Having taught (or rather, occasionally showed up for) my “Haute Cou-Poor” class at FIT, “How Much Is Too Much? The Aesthetics of Bling,” wherein the great unwashed were shown the difference between cheap flashiness and expensive flashiness, I wanted to see what people were buying today.

(No comment on what many of mes étudiants were wearing—suffice to say je pense some people wear huge gold necklaces with their names spelled on them because the names are impossible to pronounce and they wish to be helpful.)

As you know, I mostly deal in classic vintage jewelry, myself.

Most of Electric Ladyland’s jewelry would hardly be called classic. There seems to be a plethora of skulls, crowns and peace signs—one assumes those are meant for the younger customer, or the older customer who refuses to believe that we're not still awash in the Summer of Love.

But there are so many designers, you are sure to find something covetable. As far as classic goes, they carry my dear friend Kenneth Jay Lane, with many beautiful animal patterned bracelets and earrings. (The rhinestone leopard cuff is superb, dahlings!)

Electric Bling—I do not know if the pieces are designed by the owners or not, but some of them are excellent examples of when too much is too much. Take, for example, their “Dior Style” rings, knuckle crushers one very much doubts Dior would have approved of. I do not approve of them being called cocktail rings--they are so large they should be called Pilsner rings!
On the other hand, Electric Bling has lovely crystal necklaces (although the juxtaposition of crystal six-shooters and crystal angel wings takes more irony than yours truly possesses). But I confess, I quite lost my heart to a pair of huge turquoise hoop earrings, and a magnifique pair of earrings in the shape of red enameled electric guitars with white wings on gold hooks! Now I shall have something to wear to the next VH1 Awards!


(Photo courtesy Electric Ladyland)

And then there is SYdney Evan, designed by Rosanne Karmes. Her necklaces are tres' exquisite, likewise her earrings. Many of them at Electric Ladyland are composed of diamonds set in white or yellow gold. Soon to be part of my collection are a pair of diamond and white gold crown earrings, as well as a blue sapphire “evil eye” necklace. There are quite a few people I intend to point it at! (Not of course, my idol, Anna Wintour!)


(Photo courtesy Electric Ladyland)

(I have not mentioned most bracelets, because I have large wrists, and none of the designers I looked at gave dimensions for them. In fact, if I had one teeny-tiny criticism of the site, it is that there are so few details when you look at a piece. Actually, two teeny-tiny criticisms—on their About Us page, the word knack is spelled “nack.”)

But that’s mere trivia when you are purveying such bravura fashion! I urge you to indulge yourself and visit http://electricladyland.com/ . It is like a trip to Hollywood without leaving the comfort of your boudoir. Bucky never once had to budge from my lap. So we were both very happy, despite Frank Sinatra.

Ciao,
Elisa and Bucky The Wonderdog