Love, Loss & What I Wore During NY Fashion Week

DAHLINGS -

Well, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Spring 2010 has faded from memory...almost. How to describe the freezing outer tent, the steamingly hot runway tents, the many fashionistas sneezing, coughing and wheezing as we all caught the flu? After it was over, your faithful correspondent took to her bed. And it means something when I take to my bed alone.

Even though my reportage was cut down in its prime, nevertheless I feel it my duty, mes amis, to share with you some belated reports. This first post is devoted to the fabulous fashion that adorned my equally fabulous body.

On Day 5, I was photographed for a Japanese newspaper in a stunning ensemble by Mad Couture, made in green with zipper trim, and a fabulous custom-made hat from Ellen Christine! Note that the photographer made certain to have me stand next to a woman of average height.

On Day 7, I again wore a phenomenal Ellen Christine creation...there are no photographs that do it or moi justice! It was a tower of peacock plumes and blue glitter, which I wore to the Milliners Guild show. "Hothouse Flowers Of The Runway," about which more in a future entry. Suffice to say both my assistant Lola and I agreed it was the single most enjoyable show of the entire Spring Fashion Week!

At Ms. Christine's request, I wore my own 1950s cocktail dress and backward-fastening jacket. I only wish that in many of these photographs I had remembered to put my press pass behind my shapely back!

On Day 8, although running a temperature, I managed to look splendid in a 1980s Watters & Watters gown and a top hat custom-made for me by Ellen Christine Millinery. This odd pose is because I was sniffing the sad smell of failure at the Trias show. Pity.

I shall be writing up more Fashion Week memories (it's the most dignified thing to call them) tres soon. But it is this writer's duty to have you admire me first.

Ciao,

Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

Fashion Week: Tadashi Shoji Looks To The Past

DAHLINGS –

Perhaps Project Runway has spoiled certain aspects of fashion for your faithful correspondent, or perhaps it’s the need for designers to cut back in this uncertain economy. Not only that, an extensive knowledge of fashion history is not always a good thing to have inside the tents.

If I had to pick the single most uninspired show I have attended this week, regrettably it would have to be Tadashi Shoji.

As his dresses swept by, I found myself thinking, “Oh, a lovely draped black 40s evening gown…a ho-hum beaded beige 1960s A-line mini…another ho-hum beige mini, but with rope trim all over it…” and so forth.




Tadashi Shoji has been making draped and swirled dresses longer than most fashion bloggers have been alive, it’s “what he does” as one indignant young woman informed me when we discussed the show afterwards.

However, another problem your faithful correspondent had with Mr. Shoji’s collection was the often poor construction. This is not something I have not encountered on the runway before.

Several hems of the shorter dresses puckered and bubbled as the models walked; each dress had a shiny bobbing back zipper tap that caught the overhead lights as much as any of the intricate beadwork.

One dress made of alternating thin strips of solid and sheer fabric was stiff and moved poorly. It makes a smashing photograph, but in action, it stuck out awkwardly from the model’s hips as she walked.


This long dress looked like bits of bubble gum wrapper had gotten caught in the skirt.


To be fair, many of the dresses were quite appealing and the color palette was pleasing to the eye, mostly beige and sand with soft greens, blues and reds. One green dress was beautifully woven, exactly like the gold dress Gordana sent down the runway in last week’s Project Runway.

Good thing Heidi Klum was not in attendance, or there would have been a chance that Mr. Shoji would have been auf’ed.

All photos Getty Images

Marc Bouwer Does Not Care For Skinny Models

DAHLINGS:

Before taping his “virtual runway show” with heiress Lydia Hearst last week in a studio by the Chelsea Piers, designer Marc Bouwer explained the concept behind his Spring 2010 collection. And expressed some surprising thoughts on fashion models.

When asked why he had made such a radical change from his Fall 2009 collection, which had featured soft nature colors and flowing shapes, Mr. Bouwer responded: “What is the most non-traditional spring color? Red. Mix it with white, then a rich royal blue, the prints. And of course, black.”

“My inspiration is the 80s woman,” he said of his collection. “But empowered and beautiful. My collection is the 80s with a nod to the future. Two years ago I wouldn’t be doing this.”


Marc Bouwer and Lydia Hearst
Photo by Elisa DeCarlo

I then asked him what has become my standard question: would he consider making clothes for a woman my size? Unlike other designers, he didn’t give me a blank stare, but smiled.

“Fashion is for everyone,” he replied. “Beauty exudes from the woman. My clothes are meant for all women. Embrace it, wear it. Wear clothes that make you feel beautiful. We have to use the skinny models for the camera. But I don’t like it.”

And indeed, Mr. Bouwer has designed for curvaceous celebrities Jennifer Lopez and Beyonce. His Spring 2010 collection is full of clothes that could be worn by a woman of any size. If I did not worship Oscar de la Renta, Marc Bouwer could easily become my favorite current designer.

The collection launches officially this morning at www.marcbouwer.com. I know that I shall be watching.

Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

Fashion Week Day One: Ports 1961 And Pink-Eye

DAHLINGS –

One approached the Ports 1961 Spring 2010 Show with great anticipation, more so because I was sitting next to the lovely Kim of Omnimedia (our paths have crossed so often that if one of us were male and Fashion Week was a bad romantic comedy, it would seem contrived).

However, it must be admitted that Tia Cibani’s abandonment of her usual formula resulted in a mixture of beauty and boredom. It was by far the longest show I’ve attended, and even Fern Mallis seemed distracted mid-way, as did many of the PYTs in the front row. The peculiar decision was to have the models wear make-up that gave them all a severe case of pink-eye. Fashion and disease do not mix well, unless it’s an AIDS benefit.

All photos by Marcio Madeira.

Many of the clothes, while in lovely materials, had strange bumps in them reminiscent of Project Runway.

Cibani presented some stunning draped silk dresses, in fact most of the materials were exquisite, in a pale pallette of pinks, pastels and metallics.


However, some of her concoctions were either minimal to the point of ennui or sported wide plastic obi-styled belts.


(All one could think when gazing at them was waist-sweat, a concept that was new to moi and most unwelcome.)

Is this a neckpiece made of clear plastic bags, or is it a pair of welder's goggles? You be the judge.

The best dresses had either marvelous draping or, in some cases, unexpected back interest that popped the look when the models turned. And the final gown was an absolutely show-stopper, in flowing white shot with silver.

In the backstage media madness, the extremely petite Ms. Cibani was quite gracious even under siege. And as usual, there was a buffet that nobody was eating. That’s fashion…more free cocktails than you can shake a stick at, but heaven forfend you touch the food.

More later,

Ciao,

Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

It's...Czech Republic Fashion Week!

DAHLINGS -

Since my press credentials with IMG came through, my inbox has been bombarded with emails from everything to fashion shows held in Yonkers to art installations that have only the most tangential relation with Fashion. I received this invitation tonight:

It is with great pleasure to inform you that Coleman Entertainment Group is now working with Nolcha & Nolcha Fashion Week.

Now in its third year, Nolcha Fashion Week will take place simultaneously with New York Fashion Week from September 14th-18th at the iconic Bohemian National Hall in association with Czech Republic Consulate General. The landmark building will house runway shows, accessory exhibits, cocktail parties and fashion business seminars to showcase emerging American and international independent fashion designers.

Nolcha is an award-winning multi-faceted media and events platform, offering opportunities in the New York fashion business market, and operates an online fashion network, a print publication, and major annual events for the independent fashion industry and related retail businesses. Nolcha offers cost effective resources to aspiring and veteran fashion professionals; initiatives include Nolcha online, Nolcha Fashion Week: New York, London Fashion Week partner events, Independent Retail Week and Dress the Band competition.

I think I like "Dress The Band" competion best.

If anyone reading this knows about Nolcha, do drop me a comment. And if you want to attend, I'll be happy to send contact information.

M me vychov vat na e sklo na slavn esk republika!

Ahoj,

Elisa & Bucky The Wonderdog

Fashion Week Sneak Peek #2: Ports 1961

DAHLINGS -

Ports 1961, which creates simply marvelous fashion, sent a few sketches of their Spring 2010 Fashion Week presentation to your faithful correspondent this week. It has me simply craving to see them in person!

Ports Creative Director Tia Cibani has stated, that despite the economy: “Give
women beautiful clothes that represent value and quality and they will still find a way to buy them.” 'Tis true, 'tis true.

Cibani is moving from boutique and online marketing to the Bryant Park tents, bringing the customers along with her. Spring 2010 will explore the concept of "craft meets innovation".

See you under the tents!

Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog

Fashion Week Sneak Peek #1: Gottex!

DAHLINGS -


Gottex has been in business nearly since the turn of the century, and yet they always stay current. (Get it? Current--swimsuits--oh, never mind.) Molly Grad, fresh from a stint as senior designer at Gianfranco Ferre, has taken over as the new Gottex head of design.




She wants to bring the brand into the future while honoring its past. Their show is September 14, and your faithful correspondent will be there, noting down the highlights for your reading pleasure!

Ciao,
Elisa & Bucky the Wonderdog